The Stone Town Matera

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There are only a few places in the world where the yard of your house is the roof of your neighbor's house below. One of them is the southern Italian city of Matera with its stone houses, inhabited, as it is believed, for more than 9000 years. According to Hollywood, the place is so much like ancient Palestine that it was used to capture Mel Gibson's "The Passion of Christ." Matera is located in a remote corner of southern Italy in the small region Basilicata. It’s not the easiest place to reach which is why it has managed to remain relatively unknown, especially to foreign tourists, although since it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 visitor numbers are slowly growing and many of the caves have been transformed into stylish hotels and restaurants.From Matera’s train station we walked through the modern city of Baroque churches and graceful palaces. The best way to explore the neighbourhoods Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso is on foot, roaming through the labyrinth of narrow alleyways, up and down uneven stone staircases, discovering dead ends and tiny courtyards adorned with flower pots, cave churches and expansive views of the sassi.Most of the caves are now homes, hotels, restaurants and bars, but on the edge of town in Sasso Caveoso you can wander through uninhabited caves and get a sense of what it was like to live here years ago.Matera is the perfect place to wander and get lost. Some people recommend getting a guide and this might be worthwhile but we preferred exploring alone.

Interests

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Activities

MUSMA

The Museum of Contemporary Sculpture maintains not only a permanent collection of the work of international sculptures, but also hosts changing exhibitions in its efforts to explore the artistic language of our times.

The Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario

For a glimpse of life in old Matera, visit this historic sasso off Via Bruno Buozzi. There's a bed in the middle, a loom, a room for manure and a section for a pig and a donkey. You also have access to a couple of neighbouring caves: in one, a black-and-white film depicts gritty pre-restoration Matera.

Tips

The most atmospheric and welcoming places to stay in Matera are cave B&Bs and there are some excellent options.

La Corte Dei Pastori-Set in a historic building in the Sasso Caveoso, one of Matera’s oldest cave dwellings, La Corte Dei Pastori features a panoramic terrace. Free Wi-Fi is also available.

The food in Matera is on a par with our favourite Italian food in neighbouring Puglia and uses lots of fresh seasonal vegetables. You’ll find the same huge plates of antipasti as well as orecchiette pasta and fava bean puree with chicory.

Ristorante Francesca – A classy cave restaurant with a contemporary twist from the modern lampshades and purple chairs.

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